Easter Sunday dawned with church bells ringing and torrential rain, but nothing was going to dampen our spirits as we set off to town in search of a coffee. Bar Tullia has delicious coffee and pastries and a friendly clientele. The lovely Antonio and Paola were quick to introduce themselves and curious as to why we had chosen Spello for our extended stay. Everyone is so friendly and welcoming; a true community.

Back at the apartment we prepared the typical Umbrian Easter Sunday breakfast.

Traditional Umbrian Easter Sunday Breakfast

Traditional Umbrian Easter Sunday Breakfast

Traditionally, this is eaten at 9 o’clock in the morning, but to be honest we just couldn’t face wine at that hour, so we modified our plan and held out to midday.  The wine is an exquisite Vernaccia, made from half-dried grapes aged in small wooden barrels. Not quite a port; closer to a Madeira perhaps, slightly sweet but rounded and delicious. The wine was accompanied by Torte Pasquinale, savoury bread with pecorino cheese and salume, dried sausage with wild boar and mule. It was delicious.

The big event of the day was “running Jesus through the streets”, when a large statue of Jesus is carried at speed by several strong men, from the church of Santa Maria Maggiore to the Oratorio of Saint John the Baptist. The heavy rain of the morning had by now matured into a raging storm, and it raged on with lightening, thunder and sheet rain threatening to drown out the traditional celebration of the risen Christ. Mio marito declared that he was not, under any circumstances, risking drowning, being struck by lightening or by a heavy statue, but he relented when he saw me swathed in waterproofs and ready to go! So off we went.

Spello - Easter Sunday. The brass band leads the procession.

Spello – Easter Sunday. The brass band leads the procession.

I saw the procession approaching from afar. “There’s Jesus!” I squealed, a little too loudly and a little too enthusiastically, as if I had just spotted Elvis. A lone trumpeter ran towards the procession, clearly late on parade. On they came, until we could clearly see the pain on the faces of the men carrying Jesus.

Nearly there...

Nearly there…

Jesus returns in triumph to the Oratorio.

Jesus returns in triumph to the Oratorio.

Finally, Jesus was returned to his home in the Oratorio and after a few prayers and votes of thanks, the crowd dispersed. Inevitably the number of people attending was reduced due to the foul weather, but bravo to those brave souls who stayed the course.

7 thoughts on “Rise

  1. Christine

    That looks like my kind of breakfast! However, I think a leisurely walk with Jesus might be more fitting than “running” taking the steep cobbled street into account! Wonderful – keep them coming! x

  2. Kay

    Wow – Mary enthusiastic at the thought of seeing Jesus – it’s an Easter miracle! Mum would be proud xxx.

  3. Kirstin

    One of the joys about going to the small places in both Spain and Italy is the wonderful local wine which is often far better than the stuff we can buy back in the shops here yet is a fraction of the price.

    1. maryshoobridge Post author

      You are so right! House wine in the UK is normally dreadful, but in the smallest rural cafe here it is really good. And really easy to sup…..

      Sent from my iPad

    1. maryshoobridge Post author

      Thanks Otto. I love the enthusiasm for festivals and celebrations of all kinds in Italy. It is so regional too – something we are not too good at in England. Can’t wait to return.


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