Tag Archives: Wine

Pass the Wine (Sophia Loren)

“Sir, I did not count your glasses of wine, why should you number up my cups of tea?” – Samuel Johnson

There are lots of watering holes in Spello, but we have found only two wine bars.

Spello: Enoteca Properzio

Spello: Enoteca Properzio

Enoteca Properzio is located next to the church of Santa Maria Maggiore on Spello’s winding main street. You can taste fine wines here – note the stacked cases of Krug – from all over Italy and beyond.

Spello: Enoteca Properzio

Spello: Enoteca Properzio: Ready for wine tasting.

Wine tastings are a feature here. The wines are paired with delicious cheeses, meats and pasta. This enoteca is renowned throughout Umbria and both its press and punter reviews are exceptionally good. We have been 3 times and thoroughly enjoyed both the food and the wines. But…there is somewhere else we much prefer.

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Vinosofia is situated in Via Maddalena, just off the main street through Spello. Husband and wife duo Brenda McLeran and Graziano Santucci, welcome you in to a tasteful, calm interior with soft music playing in the background.

Combining American flair and Italian style, Brenda and Graziano have created a fine space where you can pop in for a quick glass or spend a long, languid evening. We have popped in for a quick glass on more than one occasion only to end up spending wonderful long languid evenings here!

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Brenda and Graziano are trained sommeliers, and they are passionate about their products. They are extremely helpful in recommending wines and we have been delighted to taste some of their recommendations. They work well together, quietly ensuring that customers have everything they need.

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Wines are largely European, mostly organic and all are from small producers. The accompanying platters of artisan cheeses and organic meats are served with baskets of fresh bread – all delicious.

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Vinosofia also offers an excellent range of cookery books and gifts for the wine lover. We had to buy one of these wonderful wine measures – we had never seen anything like this before. As well as measuring the wine, it also aerates it. It is such a beautiful object.

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Brenda and Graziano pride themselves on being a green business, in everything from the products they sell to the materials used in renovating the building. They source food, wines and gifts locally and minimise their environmental footprint wherever they can.

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia. A glass of man….or am I seeing things?

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

Wonderful liquor bottles…and they taste as good as they look!

Spello: Vinosofia

Spello: Vinosofia

A visit to Vinosofia is an experience not to miss if you ever have the pleasure of visiting Spello.

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Scenes From an Italian Restaurant

The cuisine of Umbria uses regional and seasonal ingredients to produce its simple, traditional dishes. Its rich soil, extensive farms, lakes and woodlands provide a plentiful larder of splendid ingredients for its tasty, robust dishes. I have been pleasantly surprised by the excellent quality of the food and wine of the region, although I am sure I have a lot to learn over the next few months.

Cured meats or salami are a speciality, with wild boar, pig and donkey being popular. But are the Palle de Nonno (Grandfather’s Balls) made from authentic ingredients?

Spello salami - artisan shop

Spello salami – artisan shop

Wild Boar

Wild Boar

Vegetables too are in plentiful supply, fresh, huge and delicious.

Shiny red tomatoes

Shiny red tomatoes

Mixed peppers

Mixed peppers

Umbria also produces high quality red and white wines which are respected throughout Italy. It has not been possible in a week to sample a huge selection, but we have sampled a fine white wine – Orvieto Classico Superiore – made from grechetto grapes from the Orvieto region. At just over 4 Euros a bottle, that was good value.

Orvieto Classico Superiore

Orvieto Classico Superiore

The top red sampled so far is Sagrantino di Montefalco. The native sagrantino grape has been recently revived; Sagrantino di Montefalco, which contains only that grape, is fast becoming Umbria’s flagship wine. It has a distinctive flavour, powerful and complex. A bottle of the very best from the famed vintner Arnold Caprai is on the shelf, waiting for that very special occassion.

Sagrantino di Montefalco

Sagrantino di Montefalco

The bottle picture above was savoured with an excellent lunch at the Ristorante Porta Venere, tucked away in a medieval cellar. We ate fresh bread with local olive oil, followed by rabbit stuffed with wild asparagus and proscuitto. 

Ristorante Porta Venere: Rabbit stuffed with wild asparagus and proscuitto.

Ristorante Porta Venere: Rabbit stuffed with wild asparagus and proscuitto.

A few days earlier we had had a completely different – but equally good – dining experience at the Osteria de Dada. A tiny place, stuffed with rowdy locals, no menu or wine list, one chef and one waitress! It could have been a recipe for disaster, but the house wine was great, the roast lamb and pork loin were exquisite, and the singing chef and waitress made for a thoroughly entertaining meal.

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