I’ve no idea how we missed the bus stop. Almost all of our fellow passengers got off, but for some reason we stayed on. As the bus took a sharp, uphill turn we saw a fleeting glimpse of the Basilica of Saint Francis; we pulled away. Several hairpin bends and delicious views later, we reached the end of the road, literally. There was a sign opposite the bus stop pointing out the pedestrian route to the centre of the town via a Roman tunnel. Into the depths we descended through the Roman remains of Assisi. Suddenly, daylight, big skies, church towers and domes!
The Duomo of Saint Rufino is thought to date from the 8th century, although it was rebuilt in the 11th century when it was consecrated as the cathedral of Assisi. It is an enormous structure with a beautiful green dome and evidence of repairs due to age and earthquakes.
Although Saint Francis of Assisi is the town’s most celebrated former resident, his contemporary, Saint Clare, is also honoured here. The Basilica of Saint Clare was constructed in the 13th century. It has a pretty, striped facade, using pink stone from Mount Subasio, on whose lower slopes Assisi lies. The church has a large, square bell tower and, from above, wonderful views of the Umbrian countryside.
Still we descended the steep streets, with picturesque views to right and left.
Through arches and bridges we saw changing vistas of mountains and trees, crops and clouds.
Tall medieval buildings seemed to dwarf their Lilliputian residents.
Approaching the town centre, the 13th century Torre del Popolo towered above the ancient square, the Piazza del Comune. The beautifully situated 16th century fountain in the same square is guarded by 3 rather tame looking lions.
Assisi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. UNESCO describes the town as “an outstanding example of a type of architectural ensemble that has significantly influenced the development of art and architecture.” That is quite an accolade, but one that is well deserved, not least because of the Basilica of Saint Francis.
In front of the Basilica there is a striking bronze statue by the sculpture and artist Proietti Norberto, a native of nearby Spello. The statue is known as the Return of Saint Francis or the Pilgrim of Peace. The Franciscan movement preaches a universal message of peace and tolerance, a message sadly lacking in our troubled times.
Looking down into the lower plaza, the panoramic views extend across the Umbrian plain. You might just make out the blue dome of the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli: I have written about this unusual church, containing the cell in which Saint Francis was said to have died and his first chapel, in an earlier post.
The plain facade of the Basilica of Saint Francis does not prepare the visitor for its remarkable decorative interior with frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue and Pietro Lorenzetti amongst others. Both the lower and upper churches are crammed with remarkable art.
This unique treasure house, somewhat ironically built in honour of a man who cast aside riches and dedicated himself to the poor, is surely worth a visit.
On our previous visit we had concentrated largely on the Basilica and found it rather overwhelming and a little distasteful. But we were glad we had returned; through missing our bus stop we had seen a whole new side to Assisi with its winding streets and quiet squares. We also had a chance to enjoy once again the mesmerising religious art of this historic town.
As always, lovely photos. And thanks for the accompanying words/stories! 🙂
Thanks Eric – good to hear from you again. Assisi is an inspirational place to photograph and there are so many stories to tell of its history. And I like the idea of somewhere dedicated to peace, especial so at the moment where peace is a rare commodity.
Another place I must visit, lovely photography and words. X
Thanks Michelle. Assisi is just one of the many memorable hill towns in Umbria but its art and architecture are stunning.
Great reading and wonderful images, Mary!
Greetings from the North, Dina
Thanks Dina, I appreciate your kind words.
You have a great eye for composition.
Thank you Laurie. They are a mixture of my photos and my husband’s, mine being the Norberto sculpture ones. I love well composed photos but sometimes the best ones are those snapped in the moment don’t you think?
I love those old Italian medieval towns and you have capture Assisi beautiful in these images. They really bring a sense of the place. And I love those muted colours.
Thank you Otto. I like to think that this time we peeped behind the facade of the tourist veil of Assisi. I too love the muted colours of Italy.
It looks like a peaceful and slightly eerie place.
Thanks LaVagabonde. Assisi is like many places that attract a lot of tourists – crowded in the centre, but you only have to walk a little way in any direction to find a peaceful corner.
Oh………..I was there next to you on this trip……..how lovely, how delightful…..what an enchanting place…..I have never been…….I think I shall go someday.
Thank you Tin Man. Assisi is just one of the enchanting places in Umbria. We are back again in September for more adventures.By the way, your exchanges with Theodora on her wonderful Paris blog always make me smile!
Such lovely photos and text. I visited Florence last January and was captivated by the history, art and architecture, I would love to visit the hill towns also,and slow travel through the countryside. Your blog is very beautiful, making me want all the more to visit again.
Thanks lori. The smaller towns are a totally different experience – friendly and full of wonder.